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:: MOTOR HINTS ::

On Sensored,
Sensorless, and Dual Mode:
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There are 2 different ways to drive a brushless
motor. The R1 uses only one way, sensorless. The RS can run
sensorless and can also run sensored, or it uses a combination of
both, Dual Drive Mode.
·
If you connect a sensorless motor to the RS it
drives it exactly the same as the R1.
·
Both the R1 and the RS are able to drive a sensored
motor. If the sensor wire is left unplugged from the RS it drives
the motor sensorless exactly the same way as the R1.
·
If a sensored motor is connected to the RS it
defaults to Dual Drive Mode, which starts out in sensored mode then
switches to sensorless once in motion.
·
If Sensored only mode is selected using the HotWire,
the Timing Advance value in the HotWire is ignored by the speed
control, it only uses the timing on the motor.
·
On the RS, you can visually determine if the
sensors are reading correctly. If the sensor wire is plugged in and
the RS is turn on, you should be able to see LEDs 5, 6, & 7 cyle
faintly by manually spinning the tires on the car. If neither 5, 6,
or 7 light up then the speed control is not reading the sensors.
·
On the RS, you can
also determine visually if you are in Dual Mode or in sensored only
mode. Trun on the speed control and verify the above, now use the
transmitter to spin the tires up to a medium speed, you sould see
the LEDs all go out if you are in dual mode, they will remain lit if
you are in sensored only mode.

On kV:
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kV is a rating that describes how many RPMs a motor
wants to turn for each volt of electricity it sees. A 3000 kV motor
will turn at 22,200 RPMs if a 7.4 volt battery pack is used (for as
long as the battery can maintain that voltage).
·
Motor Timing can also affect kV.

On Motor Timing:
·
Motor Timing can be adjusted in 2 ways with a
sensored motor, or in one way if the motor is sensorless.
·
The common way for to adjust timing for both motor
types is in the speed control’s software. Using Tekin’s HotWire
interface users can adjust a value called Timing Advance to increase
kV.
·
With a sensored motor, timing can also be adjusted
by physically turning the timing ring on the motor.

On Motor
Temperature:
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Motor temperature can be affected by adjusting
motor timing and by adjusting gearing. As a rule, drivers tend to
get better performance by using more Timing Advance and less gearing
when using Wye wound motors like Tekin’s Redline Sensored series.
The Delta wound Redline Sensorless motors don’t like a lot of Timing
Advance.
·
All Motors, including Tekin Motors, tend to lose
strength in the magnet at high temperatures. When the magnet loses
strength it shows up as a loss of speed. Monitor your motor temp
with a temp gun, place a small piece of black tape on the aluminum
can to improve accuracy of the readings.
·
If you see more than 180 degrees F on the motor,
possibly your timing is too advanced or you are overgeared. Try
adjusting timing advance back slightly first.
·
Until you are seeing temps of about 160 degrees F
on the motor, you are not pulling much power and are possibly not
running enough timing or are undergeared. Try advancing timing
first.
·
Another way to generate heat is through commutation loss. A high
turn motor turns more RPMs than a low turn motor therefore it
commutates more. This means that even with no load, a low turn
motor will gerentae more heat than a high turn motor.

On Delta vs. Wye
wound Motors;
·
There are 2 different ways to connect the 3
windings in the motor--in a triangle (Delta) or in a “Y” (Wye).
There are advantages and disadvantages to both. Tekin’s Delta wound
motors (sensorless) have a big magnet, Tekin’s Wye wound motors (sensored)
have a much smaller magnet so that they are approved for use in
competitions such as ROAR and JBRL.
·
Because of the differences in magnets a 3 turn
sensorless motor will not compare closely with a 3.5 turn sensored.
For example, the Tekin Redline 362 sensorless is a 3 turn that rates
at 6200 kV, while the Tekin Redline 3.5 sensored is a 3.5 turn that
rates at 8000kV.

Some rules of
thumb to use when trying to get your motor dialed;
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For 21.5, 17.5, 13.5 motors a good starting point
is to maximize the physical motor timing and run sensored only.
Even if the timing is only at 25 degrees at the maximum, the sensors
will actually be reading 15 degrees in front of that due to magnetic
flux.
·
For 21.5, 17.5, 13.5 motors also set the software timing advance to
100% even if you are running sensored only (which disables the
software Timing Advance). This seems unnecessary but it is a good
backup--if a sensor does not read correctly or if the sensor wire
becomes unplugged during a run then the speed control switches to
sensorless and allows you to finish the race.
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